Phosphorus Toxicity in Proteaceae Garden Plants

This is the story about a mistake I made in my new garden that for me at the time, was about as devastating as it could get. The remarkable thing about it though was as time went on I was nearly glad that I’d made that mistake.
When we shifted into our new house in Melbourne at the end of 2005 I was pretty excited as what I had to start with was a clean slate which meant careful planning and the opportunity to fill my new garden with all the types of plants that I really loved. For me Australian native plants were one of my passions as well as proteas from South Africa. Basically, any member of the proteaceae family are the plants that I love the most.
The plan with the backyard was to excavate an area in the middle with the intention of having a sunken lawn with raised garden beds about 3m wide in between the lawn and the fence. The idea had always appealed to me as I like to add a little bit of interest in the way things are landscaped.
Firstly the excavations from the lawn area were removed and then piled around the fence area for the raised garden beds. This would be ideal as most proteaceae plants like good drainage and friable soil so the raised beds would be ideal. The only problem was, the excavations were hard dry brown clay. This was about as unsuitable as you could get for these types of plants.
Now the easy way out of this would have been to get the clay carted away and then get lots and lots of garden soil or even sandy loam in to replace it with. Not only would this be very expensive and time consuming but it also meant that I’d be dumping my rubbish somewhere else and replacing it with somebody else’s (in this case the environments) good quality soil.
The only option for me was to improve what I already had and turn it into something that the plants would be very happy to grow in. Not only was this very achievable but it would also mean less work for me, money saved and better for the environment. The plan was simple, get some gypsum and lots of good quality compost delivered, hire as large a cultivator and then just cultivate it all in together.
It was all very simple but the success of the whole project was to hinge on just one small factor………. getting the right compost. Now because the majority of the plants that were to go in my garden were proteaceae I knew that the compost had to be free of any phosphorus. This was important because as most gardeners know fertilizers with phosphorus will kill most plants from this family.
When I went to the garden centre and inquired about the phosphorus I was told that they couldn’t guarantee the compost didn’t have phosphorus and they suggested that I use Eucy mulch. This consisted of shredded leaves and branches from Eucalyptus trees. This to me didn’t seem like a good option at all as the mulch was far from being compost and was not suitable to bury under the ground as it was still going through the composting process. Neither of these options was suitable so I decided try another garden centre. The next one I went to also had compost. I asked about the phosphorus and despite the sales person being unsure he did assure me that it was suitable for natives and there shouldn’t be any problems.
I suppose I should have been sceptical at this response but the compost was very good quality and it was also the right price. At the end of the day I thought it was worth the risk as there weren’t really many other options. So based on all of that the project went ahead and by September of 2006 my garden beds were ready to be planted out with all my favourite plants.
The summer that followed was very dry and I kept my garden alive by hand watering and some of the plants actually started to grow. But by the time autumn started to roll around some of these also started to die. All of a sudden I started to get a bad feeling about what was happening. Most of the plants that were dying were proteaceae plants and the ones that were doing ok were mostly not. I was starting to accept that my worst fear was now starting to become a reality. There was some phosphorus in the compost. This was the worst outcome possible for me. This garden I was building was to be a place for me to show case the types of plants that I loved the most and to top it all off some of the plants that had perished were actually very rare and rarely seen in gardens and plant nurseries.
Anyway as time went on more and more plants slowly started to pass away and I replaced them with non proteaceae plants. But as time went on I also discovered something else. Not all of the proteaceae plants were actually dying. Some were actually doing ok. All of a sudden my mood went from despair and perseverance to realising there was an opportunity here to actually learn something.
All of a sudden I could start to document which proteaceae plants aren’t affected by phosphorus, which one’s will barely tolerant it and which ones were killed by it. What the experts had been saying for years was not 100% correct. Some proteaceae plants aren’t affected by phosphorus.
The other amazing thing that came out of this discovery was that it steered me it the direction of another Australian native plant that I had long over looked. This particular plant is rarely found in many nurseries and gardens. It is very, very drought hardy, it’s forms are wide and varied and when in flower it can put on a display that would rival almost any flowering plant from anywhere in the world. It is called the Eremophila and since most of my proteaceae plants have died I’ve added about 20 different varieties of this plant to my garden and they’re all doing extremely well. It’s my intention to write an article about these plants very soon as even here in its native country of Australia it is still very much underutilized and deserves the respect of a separate article.
Anyway getting back to the problem of the phosphorus, a solution came my way in April last year. I was visiting a native plant stall at the Melbourne International Garden Show. While talking to the sales person his about his grevilleas, I mentioned that I would like to purchase some of his stock. The only problem was that my garden soil was contaminated with phosphorus and I’d grown tired of experimenting with which one’s would live and which ones would die. To my surprise he offered me a solution. He mentioned that all you had to do was add a high nitrogen fertilizer to the soil and this would counteract the high percentage of phosphorus. What a piece of gold! This was definitely something that you can’t find in book. It sounded so feasible and so easy to do that it was well and truly worth trialling.
I then went to the garden store on the way home and purchased some liquid fertilizer that had the highest differential in the ratio of nitrogen to phosphorus that I could find (it’s unusual to ever find a fertilizer without any phosphorus at all). I still had some grevilleas in the garden that were still alive but only just. They’d hardly grown at all since they were planted and about 50% of their leaves were either partially or completely blacken by the phosphorus. These would be the subjects of my experiment. I then drenched them with the liquid fertilizer solution and continued to do so every second month over winter until in spring they actually started to recover and put on new green growth. It was amazing, what I had been told appeared to be working and as of today about a year later those plants are all doing very well and showing no affects whatever of the phosphorus. That high nitrogen fertilizer actually worked. The next step will be retry some of the types of plants that died and see if I can get them to grow with the use of that fertilizer, but that’s for further down the track.
As far as which plants died and which plants survived this is still a work in progress but I will make it the subject an article very soon. So please……… stay tuned!
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1st of a short series, part of the 10×10 project
Help answer the question about gardening plants
Tags: care, flowering, flowers, fruits, gardening, gardens, growing, harvesting, herbs, Plant, plants, vegetables
January 17th, 2006 at 1:50 am
or wet the ground before you dig
January 17th, 2006 at 1:51 am
Use a grape hoe rather than a mattock, it works wonders
January 17th, 2006 at 2:57 am
vary clayish dirt vary good for tomatos you probly have some of the best tomatos in the world growing there man i envey you
January 17th, 2006 at 2:07 am
recycled water? whats the water from a nuclear reactor. don't use that but if its from anything that would have nutriants it would be real advantages. as long as its not toxic waste are full of oil are something like that
January 17th, 2006 at 2:19 am
Both will survive inside during winter. Both root easily (and will grow happily) in water (use clear container.)
A few other annuals that overwinter inside:
Geranium
Begonia
Hoya
Hibiscus
Dichondra
January 17th, 2006 at 9:53 am
If you grow plants under different colors of cellophane it will affect their biomass. Since chlorophyll is the predominant pigment in most plants (all the green ones), the plants whose chlorophyll is most efficient will have more energy and grow faster. Chlorophyll absorbs red light most efficiently, and green light least efficiently, so a decent hypothesis to make would be that the plant under the red filter would grow the best, purple or orange might be second best, blue or yellow might be third, and green would be worst.
January 18th, 2006 at 12:14 am
sod will come out much easier if you water it the day before removal…just a hint.
January 17th, 2006 at 5:31 pm
Better homes & garden has a free interactive landscape planing website. You'll have register to log on to their website (You don't need to buy anything or subscribe to their magazine).
"Plan-a-Garden lets you design anything from a patio-side container garden to your whole yard. Use your mouse to "drag-and-drop" more than 150 trees, shrubs, and flowers. Add dozens of structures like buildings, sheds, fences, decks — even a pond."
P.S. You may also have to close their magazine ad. by clicking on the x
http://www.bhg.com/bhg/story.jsp?storyid=/templatedata/bhg/story/data/planagardenhome_03022002.xml
Garden Styles & Plans from Better Homes & Garden:
http://www.bhg.com/gardening/plans/
http://www.bhg.com/gardening/plans/special-spots/foundation-garden-plan/
Plans from HGTV:
http://www.hgtv.com/hgtv/gl_landscaping_design/
Lowe's Landscape & Garden planner
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=pg&p=Down_to_Earth/GardenPlanner/gardenplansplash.html&rn=none3D
Garden planner
http://www.gardencomposer.com/demo-planner-1.html (demo)
http://www.gardencomposer.com/demo-planner-15.html
BBC Gardening- Virtual Design
http://www.bbc.co.uk/gardening/design/virtualgarden_index.shtml
DIY Planner
http://www.curbly.com/DIY-Maven/posts/1496-FREE-On-Line-Garden-Planner
Thought you'd like to see some landscaping design ideas from this Just Gardeners website:
http://justgardeners.com/hrsc/articles/art_landscape-design.html
This site contains a gallery of forum users's own pics too:
http://justgardeners.com/hrsc/ourgardens/ourgarden_pages/ourgardens_cornus.html
http://justgardeners.com/hrsc/ourgardens/ourgarden_pages/ourgardens_donnalockman.html
http://justgardeners.com/hrsc/ourgardens/ourgarden_pages/ourgardens_jill.html
Garden Web's Landscape-design forum:
http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/design/
Good luck!!! Hope this is helpful.
January 18th, 2006 at 1:28 am
if you want color, you will have to plant annuals, which are beautiful but must be replanted every year (that's why they are called annuals). If you want greenery, then perennials are your best best. Perennials are good in that they come back every year, but they aren't very colorful. It sounds like you live in a pretty mild climate, so you might have luck with the annuals, they may not ever die on you. I like snapdragons, peonies (very fragrant and much easier to grow than roses) and gardenias. For perennials, nothing beats the hardy mum.
January 18th, 2006 at 4:33 am
Oregano is such an easy herb! The benefit is that is can be used for such a wide variety of things, and it is a perennial so it will come back every year!
Other no brainers (and I know this from my own personal experience) is lemon verbena, thyme (lemon thyme as well) rosemary, mint, and lavender, and basil.
I have had some troubles with sage, but maybe it doesn't like Ohio weather, so the humid/hot might be good for it! Pretty much any herb is workable, just buy from a good source (preferably a farmer's market) and read any labels. I know having them indoors vs. outdoors makes a difference as well, so what I share is just from having outdoor herbs. (I just dug up the ground, plopped them in, and they lived!)
Good luck!
January 18th, 2006 at 12:18 pm
Garden Web…. they've got forums for everything and the advice from their 'regular' folks is pretty darned good!…
http://www.gardenweb.com/
clik on 'gardenweb forums' to get started….
January 18th, 2006 at 8:55 pm
Good reason for rain barrels. I’ve set up for 600 gallons…you can do it on the cheap too…lol.
January 18th, 2006 at 11:14 pm
Regular inks won’t hurt the soil either…no worries on it.
January 19th, 2006 at 1:43 am
i had no idea clay is good for tomatoes. i have clay for days in my soil. checkout my latest vid any suggestions will be much appreciated!! Thanks
January 19th, 2006 at 2:22 pm
Thank you for posting these videos. Please keep them coming.
January 20th, 2006 at 1:25 am
i know but we’re on water restrictions
January 20th, 2006 at 1:49 am
think outside the box remember all the mark brothers and most large outlet stores have there own garden shop — get a job there!!!
January 20th, 2006 at 3:29 am
Agave, cactus, ephedra, nolina=bear grass, many types of yucca, our Lord's candle, chamise, manzanita, desert holly, red barberry, ceanothos, Texas ranger, hollyleaf cherry, catalina cherry, lemonade berry, California buckwheat, needlegrass, sage, coffeebery, columbine, dudleya, fescue, iris, snowberry, desert marigold, chocolate daisy, pink fairyduster, and many, many more!
Try the Arizona Native Plant Society, P. O. Box 41206, Sun Station, Tucson, AZ 85704