Fall Planting
Most people don’t think of Fall as a time for planting new landscaping and garden plants. To most, it’s time to put garden ventures to sleep until Spring. While it may not seem so, Fall planting of trees, shrubs, Perennials, bulbs, and cool weather grasses like Fescue is a great idea.
Roots of newly planted plants and trees can continue to grow and become established in temperatures as low as 40 degrees. And since the roots don’t have to supply the rest of the plant with energy to grow, more energy is focused on root production. Come Springtime, because of an established root system, plants shoot out of the ground with plenty of energy for top growth.
Soil Temperature
Planting in the fall, soil temperatures are still warm from a long Summer. The warmer soil temperature encourages root growth.
In the Spring, the soil is still cool from the Winter and roots are very slow to become established. Even if you grow plants from seed indoors and transplant outside when the temperature warms, new sprouts still don’t have the advantage of Fall planted plants.
When Exactly Is Fall?
The Fall season officially begins with the equinox in late September. However, Fall weather varies considerably from one part of the country to the next. Basically, the best period for fall planting is around six weeks before the first hard frost in your area. You can get an idea of the average first frost date near your area from here: http://www.almanac.com/garden/frostus.php . Just keep in mind that the roots need to have time to become established before Winter sets in.
Autumn Bloomers
Fall isn’t just a time to put the garden to sleep and start getting ready for Spring. The growing season isn’t quite over yet. You can add color and new life to the garden by replacing dying Summer Annuals and Perennials with Autumn blooming plants like Pansies, Chrysanthemums, and Ornamental Cabbage and Kale, Marigolds, and others.
It’s also the time to plant spring flowering bulbs and divide Perennials.
Watch the video related to gardening plants
What features should you look for when buying or making a compost bin? Find out and get tips on how compost bin design can help to aerate compost for your garden, in this free organic gardening video. Expert: Gale Gassiot Bio: Gale Gassiot makes her own organic compost or “gardener’s black gold.”
Help answer the question about gardening plants
Tags: basil, gardening, gardens, garlic, ginger, growing, herb, herbs, horticulture, planting, plants, rosemary, seasoning, spices, thyme
April 22nd, 2005 at 1:18 am
It is vital that no matter what the compost bin or style you feel is right for you, it is properly aerated and has a hole large enough for you to get your compost out of. In addition, your bin should be something that is convenient for you something that you can get to and from easily, and that will be practical for all of your gardening needs.
April 22nd, 2005 at 2:25 am
The best compost bin is on the open ground.
April 22nd, 2005 at 6:36 am
re ur size constraints, compost can be made in one gallon batches. also, it is newer technology to have a bin u can roll. like a garbage can. no turning plus easily it is taken to the area needed and no wheelbarrow/shovel work.
April 22nd, 2005 at 12:55 am
It should do ok if you plant it now, but it might be best to wait until it's done with the flowering season, usually by September. Once you do plant it, water it well and often. Make sure it is watered before the first freeze. Come spring, prune it back to as low as 12" to encourage new growth and more flowers. Once the plants are well established, usually about 3 years or so, you'll only need to water them in times of drought.
April 22nd, 2005 at 1:52 am
Some flowers to plant with tulips include pink tulips or 'Apricot Beauty' tulip with blue forget-me-not (Myosotis); multicolored pansy with white tulips. Combine tulips with perennials to maximize the impact of both: 'Beauty of Apeldoorn' tulip with basket-of-gold (Aurinia saxatilis). Or combine any tulip with white candytuft (Iberis sempervirens).
http://www.kidsgardeningstore.com/plantingtulips.html
Bleeding heart (Dicentra),& columbine also match up well with tulips. Other spring flowering bulbs such as muscari, scilla, and fritillaries will add contrast and stretch the bloom season in the bulb bed.
http://www.dutchgardens.com/Learn-how-to-Grow-tulips/default/5307.page
Right now you can get some nice perennials at a discount & place them where they look good to you. Then place the bulbs, in groups of at least three, between the empty spaces. When the bulbs are finished blooming,most perennials will be just starting to come up. They'll hide the fading foliage of the bulbs… That's a good thing!!!
Spring annuals with tulips (looks like Azaleas in background):
http://www.baumgardens.com/modules/xoopsgallery/view_photo.php?xoops_imageid=226&set_albumName=album20&id=126_2682_IMG
Plant taller growing perennials in the background, smaller plants like pansy or petunias in the foreground.
Look how these evergreens, shrubs,
petunias, etc. are planted with tulips:
http://www.baumgardens.com/modules/xoopsgallery/view_photo.php?xoops_imageid=241&set_albumName=album20&id=TulipsCasey
The National Gardening Association has a site about planting tulips with perennials, annuals & shrubs :
http://www.garden.org/howtos/index.php?q=show&id=1323
Good luck! Hope this is helpful.
April 22nd, 2005 at 2:17 am
The Red Osier Dogwood – I would wait another month before planting. i Have one Red Osier, one Bailey Dogwood. Birch, I would encourage you to get three to plant in one site, and make sure you have good rich soil, and not much rocks. Your soil may be better than most, so take advantage of it by spacing your trees far enough away from each other so they will not crowd each other when grown. Also, consider their root systems. Dogwoods will be bushy, while the the Hazelnut will grow ENORMOUS. You will find that it can overtake everything, so
only put it where you want it. The High-bush Cranberry is a nice hedge plant, so put that into consideration also. When you plant, remember to think about future "transplantings" you might do from these to other parts of your property. I think the Black Elderberry would be fine, but watch out that it is not near any sewer or water pipes. Also, think about using your trees as a Wind Breaker, by putting them on the edges of your land. There is an Elderberry near my place, outside my property, and the owner said I could take cuts, yet I have never succeeded. So, remember once you plant an Elderberry it will either grow and grow tall, and take up about 8 -10 feet just with its little offshoots taking off. White Spruce could go in the ground now if you have access to plenty of watering, and if it is out of the wind where you plant it.
Have fun. Enjoy. Hope I have helped. Littlelady75
April 22nd, 2005 at 4:36 pm
no energy what so ever
April 22nd, 2005 at 12:13 pm
Lettuce likes cool weather, and will tend to go to seed at over 80 deg, but some varieties like even cooler climates. I have found with this offering from Pine Tree Garden Seeds (http://www.superseeds.com) which is a seed conservacy/heirloom seed company:
(from the site) "#20302 WINTER LETTUCE MIX – $0.95
These varieties will extend the lettuce season into fall and winter. Plant after the heat of summer for an early fall crop or after Labor Day in southern areas. You can also plant these in a cold frame in the north. Don't plant too early or they will bolt. This mix contains Red Deers Tongue (21101), Freckles (21001), Plato II (21002), Green Ice (204), and Buttercrunch (214) "
These are all "leaf" varieties, and many can be single leaf cropped through their growing season. This means that, instead of cutting the whole plant, you pick the individual leaves as they mature, and the plant will grow more.
One way to extend growth time is to plant in a cold frame – this way you can grow lettuce deep into the fall season, or even early winter, depending on where you are. If you do use a frame, watch to make sure that it doesn't get too hot inside, or you may steam your lettuce or even cause it to bolt (go to seed). If you see condensation inside the cold frame, prop the top open slightly (be sure to close when it gets colder each day).
April 22nd, 2005 at 10:08 pm
You can plant them but it's very unlikely that they'll bloom this year. They haven't been "chilled" underground like they would have if they had been planted in the fall. If you're very lucky they'll come up next year.
The Muse
P.S. You can try refrigerating them until you plant them outside. That may help simulate "winter".
April 23rd, 2005 at 7:26 pm
This is great! Thanks
April 23rd, 2005 at 9:08 pm
omg quit posting u suck
April 24th, 2005 at 2:58 am
this is very cool. I have a problem with critters…they dig underneath & get in that way —
Does this have a wood bottom? And if so does that keep the skunks & raccoons out??
April 24th, 2005 at 8:30 am
i have tried a couple of compost bins. To be honest i have gotten the best results just making a pile and leaving it, turning it every couple of weeks. Two drawbacks in my opinion of bins is air circulation and creating a barrier for insects to enter. i had a black compost bin which from what i read was a popular model. The contents never got hot. This baffled me for a long time then i decided to just make a pile in a sunny area. after a good rain it gets piping hot.
April 24th, 2005 at 3:06 am
You can dig them up. Some experts put them in a plastic container and store them in the refridgerator. As long as you store them in any cool dark place they will be fine. I have found they can even be kept in a shed. Some of my bulbs are kept out side in the shed in plastic bags. Because you are in zone 7b you may need to be a little more careful due to the humidity.
You may find the links below to be more helpful.
April 24th, 2005 at 2:21 pm
Mixture of materials to put in bin, it needs air. it needs to be kept warm, it needs turning every week ideally. new materials as often as possible. Pee on it often. (I jest not) With a rotating bin it is possible to make good compost in 8 weeks.
April 25th, 2005 at 4:59 am
Hi:
The best time to plant any tree is fall! This is probably a ball and burlap. Your goal is to get the tree in the ground and have a chance to develop its root system before your ground temperatures get cold and freeze. There are some steps you should take to prepare your soil and proper ways to plant a ball or burlap or a container tree. I will direct you to an article on my website on how to plant trees. Also take a look at my site map and check out the fall page as well as watering techniques on new trees. I hope this has helped some and good luck with your tree. Let me know if I can help you out with this topic or anything else.
Kimberly
http://www.landscape-solutions-for-you.com/Planting.html
April 25th, 2005 at 5:26 am
from my past experiences and many many dead trees later i always plant them from march-july….except for a sourwood and dogwood tree i set out back in november all the other trees i ever set out in the fall died…so after 75 or so trees dying over the winter in past few yrs i dont ever set them out in the fall..march and april is normally the best for most species for me and i have even got a few to live setting them out in the middle of july/august
hope this helps..
what works for one will not work for another
also the smaller the tree the better the chance of survival…the larger the tree the bigger the root system and the longer it takes the tree to root and the quicker it can die also…some of the small trees i have set out died above the ground but put out new growth from the root..plus seedlings and small trees are much much cheaper and it if dies you will take a much smaller money loss
my experience has taught me that seedlings and trees not over 2-3 yrs old are the best to set out
April 25th, 2005 at 10:16 am
Daffodils, hyacynth, and tulips are an early bulb, iris and lily of the valley will follow after those and finally, bleeding heart will bloom and spread like an array of fireworks. The wonderful smelling Lilac, will bloom as an early bush.